Young's Harvest Mild


l) Stand the unopened can in hot water for 10 minutes. This is particularly helpful in cold weather as it makes pouring the contents that much easier. After problems with Coopers Ginger beer I record the BBE SEP 2013 Batch 29316 so I can refer back if there are problems and avoid getting another from same batch.

2) Empty the content of the can into a sterilised brewing bin. Rinse out the tin with hot water to make sure all the contents are used.

Dissolve 1kg (2.2lbs) of white sugar into 6 pints of hot water and pour into a brewing bin. Top up to 5 gallons (40 pints) with cold water.
For a stronger ale - follow the instructions above but only top up water level to 3.75 gallons (30 pints). I used 2kg of sugar to get stronger ale but also increased water to 48 pints. The hydrometer reading at start was 1.028 s.g. this will likely give a 4.7% ABV once complete rather than 3.5% ABV likely if instructions followed to the letter.

Brew started 12th September 2013 at 4:30 p.m. It was noted the new brew was two degrees C warmer than the near complete brew standing next to each other. The temperature dropped to 16ºC the brew before this one nearly stopped, so a body warmer has been placed around the fermentor to try and raise the temperature. Since I want to transfer into a clean fermentor the previous brew needs to be bottled for at least 3 days before this one can be bottled. The body warmer has kept the temperature to 18ºC although ambient temperature has now risen to 19 ºC. In the future likely I will continue using a body warmer to maintain the brew at an even temperature at least until next summer. 24th September 12 days after starting and the beer is still going well bubble every 10 seconds. 25th September 2013 the brew was moved to a clean fermentor and a new brew started in the cleaned out fermentor again 2kg sugar used with new brew. It was noted on transfer much gas was released also there was a lot of solids left behind which is the main reason for the transfer it means on bottling there are less solids transferred to bottles. 12 hours latter new brew bubbling away nicely but old one had not restarted likely any gas produced being retained within the liquid. s.g. 0.018 but so much gas being released by sample not an accurate measurement resealing the air lock started bubbling again. The temperature of old brew 2 degrees above ambient and new brew 4 degrees above ambient sitting at 24ºC. One bottle which had dregs when siphon was lost on transfer lost its cork so clearly still very active. Was planning on bottling after 4 days in new fermentor think I will extend that to 6 days. 29th September s.g. 0.010 at 22ºC. 2nd October and still bubbling away. Bottled 3rd October. Brew started 25th September was moved to clean fermentor. If this follows last one should be ready to bottle on 16th. On 12th bubbles started to slow down by 14th 80 seconds between bubbles but has got colder. Bottled s.g. 0.004 14th October.

Dissolve 1kg (2.2lbs) of white sugar into 8 pints of hot water and pour into a brewing bin. Top up to 3.75 gallons (30 pints) with cold water.

hydrometer 3-10-2013

Dissolve l.5kg (3.3lb) of white sugar into 8 pints of hot water and pour into a brewing bin. Top up to 5 gallons (40 pints) with cold water. Scottish Heavy started 3rd October 2013 with extra water 6 gallons and sugar 2.5kg calculated alcohol 6% ABV s.g. 1.056 hydrometer says 7% ABV but designed for wine not beer so expect 6% ABV is somewhere near 7 pm before yeast added. Hydrometer reading shown to right. It took around 16 hours before brew became really active 1 bubble every 4 seconds. By 14 October down to 10 seconds between bubbles will transfer once second fermentor is available. Transferred 14th October. Likely to be some time before bottling as run out of bottles. Yorkshire bitter started 4pm 16th October 2013 used same amount of sugar as Scottish Heavy 2.5kg with same hydrometer reading of 1.056. Scottish heavy bottled 23 Oct with one demijohn left over to be bottled once I have more bottles. Yorkshire bitter bottled 4th November as with last one demijohn left over.

4) Sprinkle the brewing yeast provided onto the prepared mixture (temperature of mixture should be 20 - 25ºC). Loosely fit the lid to the brewing bin.

5) Stand the container in a warm place where an even temperature can be maintained (65 - 75ºF or 18 - 24ºC) and leave until fermentation is complete. This will take between 5 and l0 days. I transfer when near complete to another fermentor this reduces the sediment in the bottles at the end.

6) It is important to check that fermentation has finished to avoid the risk of your bottles bursting under pressure.

a) Bubbles have stopped rising to the surface.
b) The beer has lost its sweetness.
d The specific gravity (when tested using the recommended hydrometer is between 1.000 - 1.005.

7) Bottling - put a l/2 level teaspoon of sugar into each sterile pint bottle and syphon the beer into bottles leaving a 2 inch space at the top.
. Be careful not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the container.
. Do not exceed the recommended amount of sugar.
. Caution - Use only bottles with pressure type closure.
Barrelling - when using a pressure barrel, add only 2oz of sugar to the full 40 pints (5 gallons)

8) Seal and store the bottles/barrel at room temperature for about seven days and then remove them to a cool place for storage. First batch of Mild moved to shed 10th October. Your beer will be ready to drink when clear. Remember however, that the taste of the beer improves with maturity.

. Always sterilise ALL equipment before use (we recommend YWP steriliser).
. In winter, the use of a heater will help to keep an even temperature of 65 - 75ºF or 18 - 24ºC We recommend the use of a heater tray, heater belt or an immersion heater stat.
. Insure that fermentation has finished before bottling. A beer hydrometer is the most accurate guide.
. 0nly use pressure bottles, preferably beer bottles.
. When serving your beer, be careful not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the bottle. lt may help to pour the beer into a jug before serving.
. Your beer will take longer to clear in a pressure barrel. To help clearing you may add a sachet of proprietary beer finings.